Joseph Abboud | NYFW F/W 2017
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The namesake label began in 1986 when, after spending much of his time at Ralph Lauren during the 1980s, Joseph Abboud sought to make his own impression on an industry he once characterized as, “one long run-on sentence.” Needless to say, we don’t disagree with him as each fashion seasons tends to run into the next. New York Fashion Week itself can become a repetitive and systematic string of events, and while it can leave one to question where the creativity and innovation is anymore, designers such as Abboud vow to bring about change to this overly structured seasonal affair. As a designer that constantly pushes the envelope and always seems to be going against the grain, it’s always a pleasure to witness what mad genius plan he has concocted for the current season.
This season, to mark the 30th anniversary of his brand, Abboud stepped away from all things Dandyism and instead opted for a darker, more sinister approach toward his Fall/Winter ’17 collection, choosing to host in a gothic cathedral on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. Abboud is known for choosing venues that mirror the aesthetic of each new collection in order to enhance the experience, opinions, and overall effect of the production. Inspiration stemmed from American gothic, great literature such as Edgar Allen Poe, A Tell-Tale Heart and Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray. Abboud wanted to explore the ego of the male, incorporating spirituality and sensuality throughout the collection as well as the setting. Brocade fabrics, velvet, over-printed corduroy, black, grey, and purple saturation were used to convey this ominous presence throughout the collection.
Images courtesy of Joseph Abboud